The de Young Museum

Situated in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park is the de Young Museum of fine arts, known for near panoramic views of the city as stunning as its collections.

On my first day sightseeing in SF my first stop after brunch was to this museum. I was eager to see the beautiful gardens, building and of course artwork and this turned out to be the perfect activity for what was a very chilly morning. 

The majority of the museum is contained in just a few floors with wide, geometric galleries that transition one to the next with such ease that I would forget where I was coming from by the time I arrived at the next exhibition.

As a visitor to the city I was very eager to see the views from the museums twisted tower. From the glass walled observation deck I admired the hilly, yet very flat and brightness of San Francisco (a stark contrast to my tall and grey New York).

After admiring the view from above I was eager to see the sculpture garden I have been glimpsing through the gallery windows all morning. From there I could admire the work of architects Herzog and deMueron against the bright blue sky. The sharp geometry of the building and perforated facade created so many dramatic and subtle shadows as we approached midday.

A morning well spent in the company of lovely art, inspiring architecture, and beautiful foliage. What more could I have asked for!

Rainy Romantic Paris a Photo Story

A couple of years ago I went on my first solo trip around Europe. My last stop was a couple of days in Paris. It poured the entire time but it was incredibly romantic. I saw some of the classic tourist sights such as the River Seine, Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, Sacre Coeur, and (of course) the Eiffel Tower.

Arc de Triomphe

Champs-Élysées

Sacre Coeur

Sacre Coeur

The River Seine

Eiffel Tower from afar

Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower

- fin -

The Best of Barcelona's Art Scene →

I contributed a post to the We Are Travel Girls community about Barcelona's art scene, head over there and check it out!

The Barcelona Pavilion

Less is More.

The Barcelona Pavilion, a reconstruction of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's 1929 German Pavilion for the Barcelona International Exposition (also referred to as the World's Fair) is a the phrase "less is more" in a building. The Barcelona Pavilion is notable because it represents some of the most dominant philosophies of the self-educated architect. Mies was a modernist who was thoughtful about hoe nature and built structures interact. The minimalist structure employs expensive stones, referring back to the architect's childhood working in his father's stone carving shop. The space features 2 shallow pools and a lush back garden. And the views from the different rooms are all so different and beautiful. 

I fell in love with the pavilion. The space was quiet and meditative. I honestly didn't want to leave. And despite the building being completely exposed to a public square in a very touristy area it felt tucked away from the city. I felt like a like a house sitter to someone with very excellent taste.

After admiring the genius of Mies van der Rohe I had fallen in love with minimalism all over again. Event the travertines and marble I first thought a bit tacky had grown on me. I left feeling light and inspired. And each time I look back on these photos I get those feelings again.

I (obviously!) highly recommend a visit to the Barcelona Pavilion. You will be surprised how interesting such a bare bones place can be.

Crash Course: Gaudí's Barcelona

Barcelona is by far the most eclectic city I have ever been to. It is magical city where beach chill meets urban metropolis, Catalan and Spanish culture mingle, and entertainment is abundant day and night. I attribute part of the city's whimsy to Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí and his imaginative and almost surreal buildings. There are more than ten organically shaped and mosaic-laden Gaudí creations in the city and these are just beauties five I visited.

Casa Batlló + La Pedrera

Casa Batlló and La Pedrera (also known as Casa Milà) are located on Passeig de Gràcia and have very distinct facades. Casa Batlló was a 1904 remodel of a private home with skeletal terraces and a dragon-esque rooftop. Shortly after Casa Batlló Gaudí took on his last private commission, La Pedrera. This home was constructed on a large corner lot and its design was based on the idea of an uninterrupted curve inside and out. Gaudí looked closely at nature for inspiration in his design and steered away from lines and angles since he felt they were not often observed in nature. The curvature of many of his buildings is what makes them stand out and surprise you when you encounter them.

Parc Güell

Parc Güell is situated atop Carmel Hill and was a failed endeavor of entrepreneur Eusebio Güell. Güell envisioned a high-end, gated community inspired by English garden city movement. Gaudí designed the community master plan which included gardens, a covered marketplace and footpaths, and a communal square with outlook point. What was meant to be an exclusive community far away from the industrializing city (in the year 1900) is now a public park open for anyone (who is willing to pay a modest entrance fee) to enjoy. Only two of the intended sixty homes were ever built on the estate (one of which Gaudí lived in until his death) but there are various examples of innovative infrastructure that mimics the nature that surrounds it.

La Sagrada Familia

Sagrada Família is undoubtedly Gaudí's greatest work. It is an incredibly detailed and massive in size basilica that has been under construction since 1882. 134 years! Inspired after a trip to the vatican bookseller and founder of the Spiritual Association of Devotees of St. Joseph, Josep Maria Rocabella commissioned the church.Gaudí was not the original intended designer but in a serendipitous series of events took on the design a year into construction. After the original architect, Francisco del Villar dropped the project due to creative disagreements with the client's advising architect Joan Martorell the project was offered to Martorell. Martorell declined the offer but recommended Anotoni Gaudí for the job who accepted in 1883 and completely redesigned what was going to be a gothic style church into his masterpiece. 

When Gaudí died in 1926 the basilica was less that a quarter complete and later experienced further construction delays during the Spanish Civil War. The project was resumed in the 1950s but without many of the original models, which were destroyed and damaged during the war. 

On the grounds is the Sagrada Família Schools, and personally my favorite Gaudí structure. The wavy brick building is simple yet completely unique. And as the most "conventional" of all the Gaudí buildings I saw it was the only one I felt I could full take in, but that may just be due to the smaller scale! I also love this building because it was created for the children of construction workers to study while their fathers worked on the church.

Antoni Gaudí immediately conjures the image of Barcelona, and Barcelona wouldn't be the same without the ornate and quirky works of Gaudí. Every single one of his works are worth a long look to get to know the city that houses them.

Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art

Last year, during a whirlwind Euro-tour, my partner and I spent a few days in the beautiful Barcelona. Him the architect, and me the architecture adorer made the Museum of Contemporary Art of Barcelona (MACBA) our first stop. This modern museum is located at Plaça dels Ángels in El Raval, one of two historic districts adjoining the popular La Rambla neighborhood. Famed architect Richard Meier's largely glass and concrete building was erected in 1995 amongst the old gothic architecture of the neighborhood. The windows allow light to flood the spaces in streams. All in all the art was fine but the building was magnificent...

Ahhh, just so lovely. I mean look at us happy campers!!!

A Day at Dia: Beacon

Dia: Beacon has been on the list of places to visit for many months. This weekend my boo and I finally made it, and let me just say it was inspiring and a little magical.

Robert Irwin's landscaping, vestibule and forecourt

We took Metro North from NYC up to Beacon, NY to the former Nabisco box-printing factory turned museum. Master planner and featured artist Robert Irwin intended the experience of Dia: Beacon to begin at Grand Central and continue on the train as the city dissolves away to suburbs. The museum is located just off the banks of the Hudson River and is only a 10-minute, sign-guided walk from the train station.

John Chamberlain

Michael Heizer's North, East, South, West

I quickly fell for the massive windows that perfectly daylit the brick walls, concrete floors and art (of course). Irwin's partly frosted windows allowed for only peaks of his beautifully landscaped grounds.

The babe's favorite exhibit was Richard Serra's and although I was only mildly impressed at first the more I looked and and explored his work the more I appreciated it's thoughtfulness.

Lawrence Weiner, 5 Figures of Structure

Robert Smithson, Map of Broken Glass (Atlantis)

I think exhibits I enjoyed most were Michael Heizer's permanent exhibit North, East, South, West which is very reminiscent of the World Trade Center Memorial reflection pools, and Dan Flavin's neon sculpture installations.

We spent five hours wandering, lunching, enjoying the 1pm tour  (hich is available on weekends and I highly recommend), and lounging in the grass. It was such a lovely day in a beautiful place filled with interesting ideas.

Tulum House Tour

My partner and I have had many excellent airbnb experiences and a few so-so ones over the past few years. Our most recent place in Tulum shot right to the top of the excellent list, and since it was so great I just have to share!

Front entrance located on a no-outlet drive

The entire property is perfectly landscaped

Without being very familiar with Tulum we booked the Greenhouse, one of six condo style apartments in a residential area of the pueblo. It was the modern aesthetic, great reviews and infinity pool that really won us over. 

We arrived late at night via shuttle from the Cancun airport. After a long immigration line and a one and a half hour drive we arrived to no running water! Uh oh! But actually our host was super responsive and quick to fix the issue and by the time we had unpacked and connected to wifi. 

Bike parking and more common space

Private back terrace & a peak of the shower

The next morning we were able to see the Greenhouse in all its glory. The airbnb included 2 bikes per unit, an awesome "indoor-outdoor" shower, and a private patio area where I wish I could take coffee every morning! But the best part of the whole experience was the pool [insert emoji heart eyes]which I wish I could have spent even more time in!

Logistically the Greenhouse was a about a 5 minute (or 40 peso) taxi ride to the town center and 10+ minutes to the beaches (100-120 peso taxi ride). The overall experience the airbnb was overwhelmingly positive. Despite minor bumps such as the water and electricity briefly going out here and there, and more bugs than we are used to (it is the jungle after all!) the hospitality and value were excellent. There was a day time maid service who stayed at the house during the day and we felt safe staying there. All in all such a great stay and so happy we took the chance and booked!

The New York Public Library

This weekend I desperately needed some museum inspiration but was having such a hard time deciding on one to visit (I know tough life, right?)... The Met? The Whitney? MoMA? The New Museum? So many places were crossed off of the list because either I had been recently or the current exhibitions weren't quite doing it for me. I had near scrapped my museum plan when I saw an obscure photo of marble walls on instagram geotagged at the New York Public Library. Although not a museum exactly, it had all of the museum like qualities I was looking for and believe it or not despite being a native new yorker I had never been inside the flagship site at Bryant Park! 

Often I have had a coffee or lunch just outside the building at the dark green cafe tables found throughout Bryant Park, but on this visit I noticed the pristine landscaping and appreciated the beauty of the public space. 

The entrance to the library was simply magnificent. The intricate details carved into marble and grandiose columns somehow welcomed me and prepared me for an experience greater than my expectations. The museum offers a 30 minute video discussing its history and collections which I highly recommend sitting through. It was there that I learned more about the site's construction (1902-1911) which was atop the former site of the Croton water reservoir among many other things.

The library had an interesting start. It was 25th Governor of New York, Samuel J. Tilden (for which Fort Tilden in the Rockaways is named for), who left much of his fortune after his death to create "a free library and reading room in the city of New York." It was his gift and an agreement with the Astor and Lenox libraries of the time that created NYPL. I realized what a huge gesture this truly was at the time and still today to offer everyone a place to learn and develop. And for this to be such a magnificent space it truly speaks to the mission of the library.

Now that I have discovered the main library I plan to go and take advantage of the space and collections in addition to my local branch. On this trip the Rose Reading room, an even more grandiose space the size of a football field, was closed for renovation but will be opening again early next year. I am looking forward to discovering that as soon as it does!

Click here learn more about the libraries history. Also fun fact, did you know that the Bryant Park Lawn sits a top underground stacks for the library!? In the 1980s when the Park was in disrepair the Bryant Park Restoration Corporation renovated the park to include this subterrane for the library!

A Simple Guide to London

So as I have mentioned before I LOVE London. I was recently asked for a few London recommendations and decided to put together a post about it! Here are some of my favorite activities from my last few visits to this lovely city.

Museums

Museums are some of my favorite sights to see in a new city. Not only are they filled with beautiful and interesting things, they usually are housed in some of the most beautiful architecture.

I think a visit to London would be remiss without a trip to the British Museum and Tate Modern. The British Museum has a permanent collection much like The Met in NYC and stunning classical architecture with surprising modern twists like this beautiful atrium.

Tate Modern is a retrofitted power station reimagined by renowned architects Herzog & de Meuron. Here exhibits are frequently revolving, each more innovative than the next. And there are several places to take in views of the Thames.

Outdoors

London has lots of lovely parks, two of the loveliest are Hyde Park and St. James Park. But one of the most surprising places to take in the great outdoors in the middle of the city is Regents Canal. I started at Camden Lock Market with a delicious lunch and walked the Regents Canal towpath.

Sights

Besides the must see sights (read: Big Ben, London Eye, Buckingham Palace, Globe Theatre, Tower of London, etc etc..), I highly recommend seeing The Shard. The Shard is the tallest tower in London designed by famed architect Renzo Piano and houses some of the best views of the city. As I mention in my 2 days in London post, I think skipping the tour and indulging in a meal or drink in one of the restaurants located in the top floors is a great way to take in this magnificent building.

Food

I think there are two meals that cannot be missed when you visit London: 1. a classic English breakfast and 2. fish and chips (or my fave saveloy and chips if you can find it!) London isn't praised for it's cuisine generally, but these two dishes are something I can't get enough of (not pictured below, the baked beans which are perfect with buttered toast!).

Markets

Finally, my number one favorite way to spend time in London is exploring it's many markets. Below are just a few I recommend, but no matter where you go in the city I am sure you will find one or two!

• Camden Market in Camden Town
• Borough Market  in Sothwark
• Portobello Market in Notting Hill
• Columbia Road Flower Market  in East London
• Brick Lane Market in East London (and be sure to visit 106 Commercial Street while in the area for a tea in the Sitting Room!)

For more ideas on what to do in London, check out my previous post where I outline how I spent 2 days in London!

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The River Building at Grace Farms

Last Fall a few of my city-folk friends and I went up to New Canaan, Connecticut for the unveiling of one of my partner's projects, Grace Farms. The River building, designed by renowned Tokyo-based architecture firm SANAA, is an fluid indoor-outdoor building that hugs the natural landscape that complements this church/community center created for the public. My friends and I fell for the tranquility and beauty of the site and each of the five unique spaces.

The Court

Our first stop was the court, a massive gym that is partially below grade.

The Commons

The Commons is a cafeteria and social space with cafe where we had a simple and tasty lunch.

The Library

The Library was a cozy area with a small but well curated selection of literature that is both available for reading there or for purchase.

The Pavilion

The Pavilion was probably my favorite space. Nestled between the Court and the Commons it is a welcome center where we learned about the mission of Grace Farms and participated in a tea ceremony.

The Sanctuary

Finally the Sanctuary. The Sanctuary is located at the top of the hill over looking most of the grounds. It is here where Sunday services and other larger events are held.

I am looking forward to returning this Spring to see how this beautiful place looks in another season and escape the hustle of the city for some hours.

Zaha Hadid's MAXXI

Last week the world suddenly lost Zaha Hadid. She was a talented inspiration to women, architects, Middle Easterners and so many more. I first encountered her work through my partner who is an architect and alert to all things important and cool ;) in the design world. I was impressed after seeing her work, but even more so when I learned she was the first woman to earn a Pritzker prize- the highest honor in the architecture world. As a professional woman also in a male-dominated field, I am aware of the many battles, big and small, we fight on a daily basis. With that in mind I want to make a small tribute to Zaha Hadid, someone I consider a role model for her dedication to her work and relentless aspiration for greatness. This is a photo story of my visit to Hadid's MAXXI (Museo nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo) in Rome last summer.

It was a scorching day when Adham (my partner) and I made the long and convoluted trip from the city center to this museum, but it was more than worth it and ended up being one of my favorite places in all of Italy.

The cafe where we had lunch was nice, but what made it so special was the lovely and hospitable attendant Wardan. I feel I could write an entire post about how incredible he was to us and how he made our experience 10 times more memorable, but for now just know that he is excellent at what he does and what he shared with us about his life was very inspiring. Thank you so much Wardan, you are always welcome in our home when you visit NYC!

The building itself is breathtaking, the exhibits were all incredibly relevant and engaging, and each of the gallery spaces surprised me with its originality and beauty. Not a single space felt like the one before, it was almost like being in a new museum with the transition of each space.

Thank you Ms. Hadid, for the experience and for the inspiration.

brux

A Layover in Copenhagen

Last summer, on our way back from a whirlwind of a European adventure, my numero uno travel partner and I stopped in Copenhagen for lunch and a bit of farewell sightseeing...

As we like to recount "we had breakfast in Rome, Lunch in Copenhagen and dinner in NYC." After successfully making our way from the airport to the Kongens Nytorv metro stop, we stumbled upon Storkespringvandet (Stork Fountain) and Europa Cafe 1989 our lunch spot of choice.

We enjoyed a seriously delicious new-nordic lunch by a window that opened to the square. The restaurant was such a lovely space where we listened to the live musician playing outside. After lunch we headed over to the iconic Nyhavn area of the city.

Nyhavn was our first glimpse of the infamous Copenhagen canals. We wandered along the water, admiring the brightly colored buildings against the gloomy sky until we reached the Inderhavnen, or the inner harbor.

After a bit more walking we popped back on the metro to check out some modern Danish architecture and neighborhoods before heading back to the airport.

All in all it was a few hours well spent in Denmark's capital before bidding adieu to Europe!

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